These little appetizer thingies have been a fixture at our Christmas Eve family gatherings for decades. I cribbed this version of the recipe from Teri's Kitchen, who calls for "any kind of deli luncheon meat you prefer" and suggests roast beef and dried beef, as well as lebanon bologna. For my money, there's only one way to go. You can buy lebanon bologna online if you're in a deprived region of the world.

Those Lebanon Bologna Roll-up Things

4 oz softened cream cheese
2 tsp cream-style prepared horseradish (more or less to taste)
¼ pound sweet lebanon bologna, thinly sliced

Place cream cheese in a medium bowl. Stir well to soften. Add the horseradish and combine well. Place meat on flat surface. Spread thinly on one side with cream cheese mixture. Roll tightly. Cover and refrigerate until use, at least 1 hour so the cream cheese can chill. Slice into 1/2-inch thick pieces. Let come to room temperature before serving.

Note: Beware. The heat from the horseradish will intensify the longer it sets. Taste during preparation and keep it on the mild side unless you like it really hot.

Makes about 24 pieces

Alternative preparation that is actually what I do: Put a piece of meat on a flat surface. Spread thinly on one side with cream cheese mixture. Top with another piece of meat. Spread with another layer of cream cheese. Top with another piece of meat, spread with cream cheese, top with one more piece of meat. Slice into wedges. (For greater ease of cutting, pop them in the freezer for half an hour first.)

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